1990’s Fashion

The showiness and extravagance of the previous decades came to an end as minimalism came to force. Fashion in the early 1990s was generally loose fitting and colorful. Unless you were going for the grunge aesthetic, then color was the foe. Tapered pants were a big deal. If they weren’t tapered, then you had to taper them yourself with a fold and a couple rolls. Men and Women both wore loose and oversized clothing. Children became obsessed with Disney. 

Also in the nineties fashions worn by hip hop artists were becoming increasingly mainstream. And because of the growing popularity of hip hop music among the suburban community, urban styles were seen everywhere, not just in the big city.

Women’s Wear

In the final decade of the twentieth century, fashion continued to move towards a more casual style of dressing and minimalism. While there were periods of more formal dress, the twentieth century largely saw fashion moving towards a much more minimalist and casual style and as the eighties ended, this approach became widespread. By the end of the decade, it was clear that this approach to dressing was here to stay.

Minimalistic Dressing which became the norm of the 90’s was there to stay throughout the decade. There were occasions where formal dressing was in play but casual and simple garments were largely popular. Calvin Klein is the master of minimalist seduction. He redefined fashion for women and men with a seductive twist on timeless apparel; from jeans, couture, underwear and more. Divided by theme, with characteristic simplicity and sophistication, each of the three sections in this volume looks at one singular element of Klein’s approach.

Grunge Fashion surfaced. Suddenly every thrift store in town couldn’t keep a flannel shirt in stock to save their backs. Teens were digging through dad’s box of old clothes to get their hands on some authentic hole-ridden jeans to wear over top of their long john stockings. Messy makeup, disheveled hair and devil may care attitude was seen. Popular celebrities like Drew Barrymore, Kurt Cobain, Kate Moss and Johnny Depp were grunge fashion icons.

Marc Jacob became the talk of the town with his anti-super model culture which symbolized perfection. His muse was Kate Moss and she walked his runways clad in Grunge Fashion. 

At the beginning of the decade, the high fashion supermodel peaked with models such as Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, Cindy Crawford and Naomi Campbell pictured on the front of Vogue in 1990. The supermodel stardom influenced body ideals such as long legs, shiny hair and flat stomachs. This gave rise to the term ‘heroin chic’.

80’s sportswear was in revival as biker shorts, leggings, Keds, and oversized sweatshirts continued to be favorite choices for young women. Punk fashion also was under the spotlight for a brief movement along with mini skirts and flares.

Feminine slip dresses made out of slinky silhouettes and shiny fabrics were the norm on the red carpet. Celebrities like Kate Moss, Courteny Cox, Jennifer Aniston, Gwyneth Paltrow and Winona Ryder popularized this look.

Alicia Silverstone with her sexy school girl outfits which included blazers and mini skirts with plaid patterns and bright colors was brought to the light after the release of the film Clueless.

Other notable fashion icons were The Olsen Twins. Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen who were child movie stars gave prominence to matching outfits and popular red carpet styles. 

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  The Olsen Twins

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  Gwyneth Paltrow

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  Supermodels

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  Loose Jeans

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  Rachel Green Slip Dress

Menswear

Hip-Hop style which rose to the mainstream culture became more prominent in the 1990s. So, urban styles were seen everywhere, not just in the big city. Starting in the mid-90s, industrial and military styles crept into mainstream fashion. People were finding a way to make a fashion accessory out of a piece of machinery. Camouflage pants were ironically worn by anti-war protesters. The Fresh Prince of Bel Air starring Will Smith showed mainstream hip-hop aesthetics of the decade.

Men’s fashion also followed suit when it came to minimalism. Loose jeans, sweatpants and oversized untucked tshirts and sweatshirts became the rulebook. Sports wear was considered as daily wear as a result of the influence of a subculture called as ‘britpop’ where mod styles and sports wear of the 1960s resurfaced.

Notable bands such as Nirvana, Pearl Jam, Smashing Pumpkins & Neil Young wore beanies, band t-shirts, knitted sweaters with patterns and Converse shoes. Thrifting became a culture. This was a way for the people to disassociate with mainstream culture and trends by adopting a disheveled look.

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90’s TV shows and Movies

-Friends

-The Fresh Price of Bel Air

-Clueless

–YOU’VE GOT MAIL

90’s inspired fashion

Versace

References

retrowaste.com, 1990s

Design Philosophy

Design Philosophy is a designer’s individual and distinct sense of style. The philosophy of design is the reflection of the world in the minds of designers. Of course, every designer has their own technique, preferences, aesthetic detailing, unique structures, color stories and distinctive silhouettes. For example, when it comes to notable designers, fashion aficionados can look at their untitled collections and state the names of the makers in a New York minute because each designer’s DNA or Philosophy is hardwired into their collections. Jean Paul Gaultier with his quirky glamour and radical imagination. Phoebe Philo, The queen of minimal chic may also have been responsible for the “normcore” movement. Zuhair Murad’s romanticized affair in a Shakespearian sonnet with an array of rhythmic garments. Donna Karan with her bold and shoulder-baring looks. JJ Valaya and his decadent Indian Royalty. Ritu Kumar and her block prints.

It is important to find ones philosophy of design to develop their individuality and approach to fashion.  

By answering the following questions is how I found my philosophy of design.

-What inspires me?

-What drives my yearning to design

-What colors do I prefer

-What is the story I am trying to convey

Just like every novice, I struggled with finding my own aesthetic sensibility and design philosophy as I was torn between two distinct approaches.

1. Achromatic clothing created by responding to the needs of modern urban life. Striving to find the perfect balance between esthetics and experimentation. With details such as harnesses, body conforming and flattering silhouettes. Inspired by normcore, street styles, goth, soft dark and grunge aesthetics.

2. Soft modern romanticism with dreamy fabrics fabrics, elegant pleats, eye catching ruffles and cascades.

The latter is the clear choice was the latter option as it gives me more room to play with in terms of color, fabric and silhouettes. I think the second aesthetic without a doubt would be my personal design philosophy.

Trendsetter: Kim Kardashian

Trends Popularized by Kim

Say what you want about Kimberly Kardashian but there is no denying that she is the most influential woman in the fashion industry. Take a look at the iconic trends that she has dictated.

1. 2000s to present-

If there was only one trend we could forever thank the Kardashians for making popular, it’s tight, body-conforming clothing. From dresses and bodysuits to tight jeans and pencil skirts, the Kardashian sisters are notorious for wearing clothes that accentuate their bodies. And as fashion blogger Amanda Maxwell told The List, “With their famous curves, it’s no wonder that they want to show them off!”

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2. Twinning 2006s –

Paris and Kim were spotted together wearing matching outfits even before Kim rose to fame. They would wear matching velour tracksuits and identical dresses as well as accessories. As of Oct 2020, when Kim and Paris reunited after a decade or so of being apart, they were seen together in matching velour tracksuits and announced the Velour co-ords release under Kim’s Skims shapewear brand.

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3. Neutrals and Nudes 2010- present-

Kardashians tend to stick with a neutral or even nude palette, more often than not,” Megan Moran, owner and wardrobe stylist at The Style Foundry, told The List in an interview. “Skin tones, light pinks, bright whites and blacks let them either standout in their outfits or become one neutral canvas.” In the years since the Kardashians had all but taken over pop culture, Pantone’s colors of the year have largely been bright and bold. But since they’ve transitioned to the more calm, neutral colors, fashion has followed suit.

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4. Long Coats 2014-

Thanks largely to the Kardashians, coats are just as much a fashion statement as sneakers or purses. Megan Moran, owner and wardrobe stylist at The Style Foundry, said in an interview for The List, “You will notice that most of [Kim’s] outfits consist of a coat or jacket.” Fashion blogger Amanda Maxwell told The List that Kim’s affinity for long coats began around 2014, when she was pregnant with Saint. “Floor length coats of all kinds quickly followed,” said Moran. And it’s not just to keep warm — Moran notes that the addition of coats to an outfit help “show off her figure (long lines create a slimming profile) or aide in her “lingerie and jacket falling off the shoulder sex appeal” look.

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5. Bodysuits 2014-

Bodysuits are one example of a trend Kim popularized, but the Kardashian sisters started wearing way back in 2014. Kim K was wearing the solid bodysuits under suits and paired with ripped boyfriend jeans. Today, bodysuits are everywhere.

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6. Lingerie as tops 2016 – 

Wearing lingerie as clothing is nothing new (perhaps it started back in the ’90s when slip dresses became the new norm), but Kim is a particularly big proponent of the trend. She’s worn bras and teddies in lieu of more traditional tops multiple times over the past few years. Often, she’ll layer a blazer or some other type of overcoat on top for more coverage. While this trend of see-through, free-the-nipple clothing appeared on the runways the season prior in 2014 inspired by Netflix’s drama documentary titled Free the Nipple, it had yet to become mainstream — Sheer tops and bodysuits are a wardrobe staple, often worn with colorful pasties over the breasts. And it’s at least partly due to the Kardashians’ influence. 

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7. Coordinates (2016)- 

February 2016, the entire family stepped out in coordinating outfits to support Kanye when he debuted his newest collection at New York Fashion Week in 2016. Later that year, Kourtney, Kim and mama Kris stunned in coordinating Balmain numbers as they sat in the front row to watch the designer’s Paris Fashion Week runway show in September 2016

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8. Lampshading 2016–

 The Kardashians were the first to eschew an entire clothing category, preferring to pair their tops with no bottoms at all. Kim is especially known for wearing tshirts, blazers and sweatshirts as dresses paired with thigh high boots or heels in lieu of pants.

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9. Corset Belts – 2017

Kim reinvigorated this turn of the century trend, adding these waist-cinchers on top of every look from LBDs to XXL tees. Asos, Forever 21 and topshop came out with corset inspired belts to be worn on top of oversized t-shirts, shirts and dresses.

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10. Bike Shorts 2017-2018- 

Kim wore her husband’s brand head-to-toe in LA via a matching ice blue hoodie and bike shorts. Bike shorts have been embraced by many celebrities, influencers, and editors, but we must not forget how controversial they were when they first came back into style. Kim was one of the first A-listers to adopt the ’80s-inspired item. In fact, we think she played a big role in bringing them back into mainstream style.

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11.   Latex- 

While Kim loves her fitted bodycon numbers, Kim has a soft spot for latex. Here are all the times she showed us how to pull off different types of latex outfits. Latex clothing was once exclusively the domain of sex shops and fetish gear, but the style has now fully infiltrated the mainstream.

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12. Thong Heels 2020- 

Flip-flop heels are one of the most controversial trends of the moment. Some people love their hybrid design, while others find them, well, off-putting. Kardashian West belongs to the former category since she wears them consistently. It kind of makes sense. After all, flip-flop heels look retro and edgy, which are two words you could use to describe her style as a whole. 

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13. Smokey eye- 

Years before Urban Decay’s Naked Palettes and Nikke Tutorials’ videos on youtube, Kim was spotted wearing smokey eyes Her go-to makeup routine is characterized by smouldery, lined-all-the-way-around eyes, lashes that reach the sky, impeccable highlight and contour, and an understated glossy lip lined with a brown pencil. This — above all — has become the quintessential Kim Kardashian aesthetic after which nearly every KKW Beauty collection is modeled.

Before contouring and dramatic lips took over the beauty scene, many women flocked to the smoky eye trend. It’s no surprise that the Kardashians were among the first to promote this look. The Kardashians were first known for their deeply smoky and sultry eye. The trend of the gray and black blended and smokey shadow was really due in large part to the Kardashian girls.

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14. Wet Hair 2010

For most of us, going out with wet hair is just a way of telling the rest of the world you woke up too late to do a quick run with the blow dryer. For the Kardashians, however, going out with wet hair ignited a “wet hair don’t care” trend that took over the red carpet. Kim proved that a sleek bun isn’t the only way to quickly get ready for the day and the rest of the family followed suit. The trend quickly became popular in Hollywood, and like most of the Kardashian-induced trends, led to step-by-step how-to’s and video tutorials.

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15. Contouring 2012-present
 Otherwise known as The Turning Point in the makeup world, 2012 was the year Kim Kardashian tweeted a before-and-after photo of herself pre- and post-contour (makeup artist Scott Barnes was responsible for the look). It all went downhill from there, when millions of people realized they, too, could create razor-sharp cheekbones with a stroke of the brush.

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16. Nude Lips 2000- Present- 

Ever since the skinny brow and lip liner era, kim has been rocking the nude and MLBB lip. She switches between glossy and matte finishes. By 2012, with the help of Instagram’s increasing usage, the whole internet had come to recognize Kim’s go-to makeup look: cream contour, pale lip, and a sultry smokey eye complete with voluminous falsies. Her brand KKW beauty stocks a majority of nude shades of lipsticks in comparison to bold ones.

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18. Bold Statement Lips – 

Kim often seems to lean toward bold lips instead of her signature smoky eyes, at least on red carpets and opt for bold burgundys or sultry reds with little to no eye make up. It’s either a bold eye or a bold lip and never both paired together.

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References

https://www.vogue.com/article/kim-kardashian-west-style-trends
https://www.pinkvilla.com/fashion/celebrity-style/kim-kardashian-west-kylie-jenner-7-trends-you-didn-t-know-were-actually-started-kardashians-518947
https://www.thelist.com/54591/fashion-trends-started-kardashians/
https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/kim-kendall-kanye-west-kkw-beauty-cher-b1818497.html
https://www.insider.com/kim-kardashian-style-evolution-2017-7#in-march-2015-kardashian-wore-a-white-mesh-dress-with-a-furry-pea-coat-to-the-balenciaga-show-at-paris-fashion-week-with-very-blonde-hair-37
https://www.byrdie.com/history-of-contouring
https://www.nytimes.com/2020/08/12/style/bike-shorts-pandemic-quarantine.html
https://f-trend.com/blog/future-cycling-shorts-trend-2019?language=en-in
https://www.whowhatwear.com/kim-kardashian-controversial-clothing-trends
https://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/gallery/kim-kardashian-new-style-high-fashion-wardrobe
https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20200108-from-fetish-to-fashion-the-rise-of-latex
https://www.vogue.com/article/twinning-runway-trend-spring-2018-ready-to-wearhttps://www.vogue.com/article/twinning-runway-trend-spring-2018-ready-to-wear
https://www.usmagazine.com/stylish/news/kim-kardashian-and-paris-hilton-announce-skims-velour-tracksuits/

1980’s Fashion

In the 1980’s The Cold War ended, which was great. The Berlin Wall fell. The early 80s were somewhat subdued in color, where we see a lot of browns, neutrals and tans and oranges. The Memphis Art movement was in full swing. Blocky shapes were everywhere and dressing like a tennis player was the cool thing to do. Velvet became a popular fabric and waistlines rose for both the sexes. There was a hint of inspiration from the 50’s when it came to women’s wear.

Women’s Fashion

Bright colored accessories like sunglasses, bangles and hoop earrings were a necessity. Teased hair, loud makeup and neon were an important part of this style. This style was obviously more popular with the younger crowd.

Carrying on from the late 1970s trend for sportswear and encouraged by a fitness craze, women increasingly wore stylish gym wear in their day-to-day life. Athletic and slim bodies were considered beautiful. Jane Fonda, a fitness instructor, sold her workout videos on tapes and she was seen wearing colorful and body hugging unitards and bodysuits paired with leg warmers.  a woman could wear skin-tight cotton stirrup pants with leggings and a giant turtleneck sweater. 

Norma Kamali Donna Karan and Azzedine Alaïa were the popular designers in the field of sports wear.

The Brand Nike soared to popularity during this decade with the help of Michael Jordan, its products Air Jordans and Chicago Bulls baseball cap was owned by every kid. 

MTV and  Coca-Cola had a huge impact on fashion, as teens across the U.S. were tuning in to watch music videos starring wildly dressed celebrities and wore Coca-Cola branded clothing. Suddenly it became much easier for a fad to spread across the country faster than wildfire.

One of the most popular icons of eighties style is Princess Diana, the young woman who famously married into the British royal family. Pearls, pie-crust blouses, flowery Laura Ashley skirts and patent pumps were some of the staples before her wedding. She had a lean, athletic figure which further pushed people to consider that figure as a body standard.

Her wedding dress by David and Elizabeth Emanuel was one of the most iconic fashion movements of the time and wedding dress designers picked up the elements from her dress in no time.

As the decade progressed, so-called “power dressing” began to dominate. This reflected a shift in women working in high-powered positions and using fashion to be taken seriously. Padded shoulders and bold accessories made up this look. As part of this move towards bold dressing it was important to be seen wearing designer clothes. These designers embraced the power suits and added their own twist. Popular designers were Thierry Mugler, Christian Lacroix, Gianni Versace, Jean Paul Gaultier and Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel. 

The clothes of innovative Japanese such as Comme des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto became popular at Paris’ fashion shows. They used the color black in their designs.

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  Punk

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  Princess Diana in Her Wedding Dress

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  Thierry Mugler’s Peplum Suit

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  Power Dress

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  Coca-Cola Clothes

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  Jane Fonda

Men’s fashion

Women’s Fashion explored new waters and Men’s Fashion followed suit. Power Dressing and Fitness wear was popular among the men too. As a result, designers such as Comme des Garçons, Thierry Mugler, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Karl Lagerfeld who only designed for women, expanded their range and sole menswear too. 

When it came to sports and casual wear, seersucker suits, polo shirts with popped collars and knit sweaters worn over the shoulders. Both men and women wore chunky knitted sweaters

Power Dressing included double breasted suits with pinstripes, ties and wide lapels. Hugo Boss contributed largely to this style. Wall Street workers(yuppie) rose to fame as they were rich and wealthy, they wore power suits which symbolized that they were powerful and wealthy. This rich and hardworking group of people led to the invention of the term ‘workaholic’. Being rich was the new trend and those who couldn’t afford to buy things used the option of credit as Credit Cards were invented during the 80s. People became more materialistic thanks to the option of credit buying. Shopping Malls which housed a myriad of brands under the same roof emerged during the 80s. They said WW3 is around the corner as we might die so shop till you drop. The term ‘Shopaholic’ was coined during this era.

Strides were made in technology as well. Motorola introduced brick phones and as a result, fanny packs were introduced to carry around the ‘bricks’.

Miami Vice, a TV show came out in the 80’s and this iconic show has become well known for its distinctive aesthetic, as well as its influence on fashion and music trends of the decade. Monochrome or single colored suits in whites and pastels became famous. The suits were worn unbuttoned and the hair was slicked back.

The Fresh Price of Bell Air starring Will Smith also aired during this decade, his oversized clothing and boxy hair style became the talk of the town.

There was also an influence of Punk from the previous decade and goth look was also popular. People were seen wearing clothing inspired by Victorian Mourning outfits. 

Hip Hop which was just a subculture was made mainstream in the US. The signature look included elements such as old-school, white trainers by Adidas and Puma, distressed, tapered jeans, preppy button-down and polo shirts, nylon coach jackets, hooded sweatshirts, gold chains, and baseball caps worn at an angle. People were seen wearing this style whilst carrying a boombox over their shoulders.

Michael Jackson was one of the most popular and influential fashion icons of the 1980s. He helped several fashion subcultures emerge, and inspired many young people, who were in love with his music and his character. Sequined gloves still inspire many celebrities, such as Madonna and Lady Gaga. Jackson was interested in British royalty and had several military jackets. The same trend was then adopted by other subcultures, especially from New Romantic fashion icons. Leather jackets and clothes rose in popularity over the 1980s thanks to many subcultures, such as heavy metal, rock, punk and visual kei. Those worn by Jackson were full of paillettes and rhinestone, with some black details.

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  Michael Jackson Thriller Jacket

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  Hip-Hop Fashion

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  Sweaters

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  Power Dress. Hugo Boss’ Ad

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  Yuppie Wallstreet Couple

1980’s Inspired Fashion

Power Dressing

Leg Warmers

References

fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu

1970s Fashion

Seventies fashion saw bold colors and patterns take center stage. Women’s fashion looked back to the 1940s by day and pumped up the glamour by night. Men had an array of suit types to choose from and favored colorful plaids. Children’s fashion followed adult fashion with bold plaids and bright colors with the distinction between genders lessening throughout the decade.

Bold colors and patterns surfaced during the 70s. It drew inspiration from 1940s glamour. This decade continues to be one of the most iconic decades of all times. Elements such as flared hems, bell sleeves, coats and mini skirts were in trend. Men chose from a wide collection of suits that included colors and plaids. The 70’s gave us icons such as Jane Birkin and Jean Shrimpton who spearheaded the popular styles of the decade.

As the 70’s approached and the swinging 60’s swung to an end, markets saw a surge in boutiques and diffusion clothing. Garments which were mostly tailor made were now ready to wear. Artificial fabrics became increasingly popular as they could be bought at throw away prices. People were so obsessed with these man-made fabrics that they contributed to the decade being called as “Polyester Decade”

Women’s Fashion

Prairie dress inspired by hippie swirls and disco suits worn in the evenings to go dancing and casual fashion of the previous decade pumped up the ante as athletic apparels saw a rise in production. 

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The DIY concept embraced by hippies ditching consumerism, trickled up and piqued the interest of major designers such as Zandra Rhodes of the 70’s. Hand made arts and crafts such as patchwork, crocheting, knitting, quilting, felting, dyeing, beading, smocking, leather craft and hand-painted fabrics and embroidery were the techniques used by designers. They also leaned towards the past for inspiration. The prairie dress was midi-length, adorned with flowers and flounces just like the Victorian Style.

Designers such as YSL also looked to the 40’s and 50’s where features like boxy jackets, crepe dresses and turbans reminded the audience of World War II. 

Evening wear was thoroughly modern and fresh with no inspiration from the past. While it may have been known as the “Polyester Decade,” lycra, satin, sequins and velvet flooded the dance floor. As the disco genre became increasingly popular, women’s evening wear became increasingly glamorous with classy, full-length figure-huggers battled with short, sparkly halter necks and hot pants. In the early seventies, women could be seen wearing sequins and hot pants to the disco. 

Throughout the sixties and seventies, women were gaining increasing sexual freedoms and this was obvious their clothing. New styles were created and women began to wear clothing heavily inspired by menswear. As women gained more opportunity to work outside the home, they looked for clothing, like trousers and the wrap dress, that afforded them more freedom. Later in the decade, fashion became even more comfortable, an emphasis on personal fitness foreshadowed the rise of athletic wear as informal wear 

Vivienne Westwood

The hippie movement was still the fashion look of late 1960s London but this did not inspire Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren, they were more into rebellion and in particular 1950s clothing, music and memorabilia. In the mid-1970s, some men and women in London began to shock with the anarchic Punk style.  Vivienne made Teddy Boy clothes for McLaren and in 1971 they opened Let it Rock at 430 Kings Road.

By 1972 the Westwood’s interests had turned to biker clothing, zips and leather. The shop was re-branded with a skull and crossbones and renamed Too Fast to Live, Too Young to Die. Westwood and McLaren began to design t-shirts with provocative messages leading to their arrest under the obscenity laws; their reaction was to re-brand the shop once again and produce even more hard core images. By 1974 the shop had been renamed Sex, a shop ‘unlike anything else going on in England at the time’ with the slogan ‘rubberwear for the office’.

Bohemian Look

Bohemia

The opinions regarding the origin of bohemian style are mixed. Some say it began with the gypsies, men and women who traveled throughout Central Europe and due to their on-the-road lifestyle, would wear numerous pieces of clothing which were loose (i.e. no corsets or constraining undergarments) and individual, since they were a piece of society which did not follow the rules or societal expectations. In a way, the gypsies were like the first fashion bloggers: unique and self-made. style of loose layers, ruffles, free flowing garments, convenient bags and purses, hats, jewels and a potpourri of pieces which, when blended together, create a “less kept” look than the status quo may wish for. 

Men’s Wear

Men’s fashion during this decade picked up bright colors and patterns and bold notes. The Peacock Revolution began around the 1950s paved the way for men to wear bright colors and it wasn’t frowned upon. Wide belts with large buckles focused the eye on the center of the body, making wider bodies appear slimmer. A sleeveless waistcoat or jerkin, a classic single-breasted sports jacket in tweed, denim, or corduroy, or a blouson jacket in leather or synthetic fabric was usually worn. Men’s fashion also became gender neutral eventually as the concept of feminism flourished.

Towards the end of the decade, double-breasted suits with broader shoulders and narrower legs and lapels began to come into fashion. Just as womenswear would witness shoulders widen in the 1980s, men’s suits also saw shoulders broaden as the 1970s inched towards the eighties.

Just as womenswear saw a rise in athletic wear as leisurewear, so too did menswear. Tracksuits and running shoes were worn as everyday casual wear. Bob Marley was one of the early adopters of this trend.

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1970’s Themed Movies

-Rude Boy (1980)

-American Hustle (2013)

-Vinyl (2016)

1970’s Inspired Fashion

References

-fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu

1960’s-Baby Boomers’ Gen

Child-like aesthetics

The New Look lasted throughout the 1950s, but the high-maintenance lifestyle eventually gave way to the rebellious culture in the ‘60s. Teenagers wanted to be people who didn’t look like their parents, and their parents were ready to break free again. Fads were short-lived and garments were cheaply manufactured. Clothing wasn’t conservative anymore, and was looser and much shorter. The flowing hippie look and the graphic mini-skirt gave women choices and in the way they expressed themselves. This decade gave a rise to many iconic fashion names who dictated the fashion of those years.

Fashion in the 1960s became progressively more and more casual across all sexes and ages. Womenswear followed three broad trends: a continuation of the previous decade’s ladylike elegance, the youthful aesthetics of Mary Quant and the Space Age influence, and the late 1960s “hippie” style. Menswear saw an increasing amount of color and pattern, military influence, and new fashion icons in the form of rock stars. Children’s wear saw less change, but also became more casual and bright in color and pattern.

Women’s Fashion

Women’s 1960s fashion was an extreme style and persona from the start of the decade to the end.  In the early 1960s, the fashion idol was Jackie Kennedy with her perfect white pearls and tailored suit dresses. By the middle of the decade, supermodel Twiggy had women freeing their minds and bodies into clothing that didn’t require any extra thought or effort. From modest to “there is no such thing as too short,” 1960s fashion was in many ways like the 1920s flapper revolution. 

Twiggy

In the early years of the decade 1960, fashion continued along the lines of the previous decade. Skirt suits and coordinating accessories were common. First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy epitomized this look during her husband’s presidential campaign. She was admired around the world for her put-together, lady-like look consisting of boxy Givenchy skirt-suits, sheath and A-line dresses, and luxurious accessorizes with white gloves, pearls, and a matching hat. This look was being produced by the likes of Hubert de Givenchy and Cristóbal Balenciaga, but as the decade progressed, it became clear that the attention was towards a new kind of designer in the 1960s.

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  Givenchy Suits

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  Jacqueline Kennedy

Mary Quant in Mini Skirt

A cultural phenomena known as Swinging London reached its peak in the 1960s where music, art and fashion were celebrated. The movement gave rise to The Beatles and the miniskirt, Twiggy and The Who. The designer who led the way in the “youthquake” was Mary Quant who opened her first shop, Bazaar, on the King’s Road @ Chelsea, London in 1955. Her simple, colorful designs appealed to teenagers and young people who had more money to splurge than any generation before. It differed from the stuffy looks of the older generation and appealed to young women who embraced the child-like styles Quant produced. Although the most revolutionary designs attributed to Quant was the miniskirt and minidress.

Along with the miniskirt came a craze for the playful, innovative use of new materials and a focus on scientific progress. Newly developed materials such as acrylics, polyesters, and shiny PVC were used in women’s clothing while designers were inspired by pop art and space

The influence of space in the zeitgeist was seen as a race to space exploration (lunar landing) began between the two cold war adversaries, the US and USSR. People focussed on the scientific advancements which turned their heads towards alien conspiracy theories and so the newly developed materials such as acrylics, polyesters and PVC which emulated the vibes of extraterrestrial life became popular. Astronaut’ hats and goggles, white and silver PVC ‘moon girl’ loon trousers, catsuits and white patent or kid leather, mid-calf-length boots were a few of the fashion items. Sheath and A-line minidresses, both without defined waists, were popular silhouettes. Paco Rabanne made a comet-like entrance into the fashion world in 1966 with sparkling no-sew dresses made of linked plastic and metal. His outfits were inspired by the space age with the use of shiny chainmail.

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  Paco Rabanne fall 1967

Skirts dipped back to mid-calf and by 1969, the full-length maxi-skirt had emerged. This came with the shift towards the “hippie” aesthetic. People began using LSD and adapted a rather carefree and laidback lifestyle. They participated in social movements to end the war as they believed in the advocation of peace. Psychedelic swirls and prints introduced a trippy edge to clothing that was picked up by the hippies around 1966-1968. Being over the top was never too much. Large paisley swirls, neon flower daisies, and tropical beach prints all made an entrance. Bright yellow, orange, hot pink, lime green were the favorites. These bold colors and loud patterns were added on dresses, skirts, tops, and pants. Hippies ditched consumerism and embraced natural fabrics.

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  Psychedelic Swirls

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  Iconic Paisleys

Audrey Hepburn

Designs were inspired by styles of Art Nouveau and Hollywood. An enduring icon of the 1950s and ‘60s, movie star Audrey Hepburn embraced and influenced the progression of sixties fashion up to the hippie aesthetic of the last part of the decade.

Subcultures Mods & Rockers

Mods on Scooters

This decade saw a rise in the emergence of several subcultures such as the Mods and rockers were two conflicting British youth subcultures. A public feud between the two gangs ignited a panic among the masses and after which both the groups were considered to be reckless troublemakers.

Rockers

The mod subculture circled around fashion and music, and many mods rode scooters. Mods dressed in suits and other clean-cut outfits, and listened to 1960s music genres such as soul, rhythm and blues, ska, beat music, and British blues-rooted bands.

The rocker subculture was focused on motorcycling and not scooters, and their appearance and persona reflected that. They wore protective clothing such as black leather jackets and motorcycle boots. The common rocker hairstyle was a pompadour, while their music genre of choice was 1950s rock and roll.

Men’s Wear

For the past century, men’s suits were clean and tailor made, plain and classy. During the 60’s their suits experienced a new casual touch. Swinging London influenced bright colors, prints and collarless jackets (popularized by The Beatles) paired with slim trousers became widespread.

The mid- to late-1950s saw a rise in the popularity of Italian style suits with narrow striped ties, menswear gradually incorporated brighter colors and patterns, and ties began to widen again as the decade progressed. 

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During the mid 1960s Mick Jagger and Jimi Hendrix both sported military jackets during performances and were responsible for the spread of military inspired trends, while The Beatles were seen wearing neon versions of the styles.

Very much like womenswear, menswear also witnessed an influence from the space race as Pierre Cardin designed futuristic clothing for men. 

The Hippie movement flooded men’s fashion as well where tie-dye, loose-fitting shirts, and velvet vests were all a part of the men’s hippie look in the later part of the 1960s while striking colors continued to remain front and center. It was during this time, the men ditched western practices and looked towards the east by buying second hand or thrifted clothes to ditch materialism and consumerism. 

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  LSD usage

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  Thrifted Clothes

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  Parades

1960s Inspired Movies

-Girl, Interrupted (1999)

-An Education (2009)

-Almost Famous (2000)

1960s Inspired Fashion

Mod Force

References

-imdb.com

-vintagedancer.com, 1960s

1950’s- Post War Period

Clothing during the postwar period witnessed a clear distinction between the genders as men’s fashion gravitated toward casual, laid back and day-to-day styles while women favoured elegance, femininity and every element that contradicted the utilitarian and functional features of the 1940’s. Many famous designers emerged during this period who became the catalysts to the spread of the majority of the trends. Colors and bright prints were in play for both men and women.

Women’s Fashion

The war ended and men returned home and picked up where they left off, with regards to their responsibilities of providing for their families by working. Women felt less burdened and retired to their traditional roles of the times such as tending to the households and raising children. The zeitgeist was hit with waves of racism, anti-communism movements and conservatism. Hourglass was the ideal type of a body that women aspired or were expected to have so they tip-toed back to the methods of the 19th century to achieve this look called ‘wasp waist’. They squeezed into undergarments such as corsets with boning which were meant to cinch in the waist. Bust and hip pads to accentuate the features and the result would be an hourglass figure.

As men returned to being the breadwinners of the families, women resorted to splurge money on ensembles to look wealthy even if they were not just because their appearance was linked to the success of their husbands. They obsessively bought magazines and watched ads on the TV which reminded them of their desire to look a certain way which was acceptable by society.

The New Look

Christian Dior’s “The New Look”

In 1947, Christian Dior revolutionized the fashion industry by creating a look that would dominate the markets for years to come. Harper’s Bazaar dubbed it as The New Look after Dior’s first fashion show in Paris. The ensembles were polar opposites of the 40’s style where limited or judicious use of fabric was made. Now, the clothing had voluminous appeal and a luxurious touch. Shoulders softened down and became less structured, corseted waists replaced boxiness of the war period and skirts which were straight before, billowed or flared out and sometimes they were so form fitting that women found it extremely difficult to walk. Bodices became excessively body hugging.

As the decade continued, these choices became varied as new designers such as Cristobal Balenciaga, Charles James, and Hubert de Givenchy introduced different silhouettes. Introduced by Chanel, Dior, and Balenciaga around the same time, the straight-cut suit, in contrast to the New Look, emphasized a woman’s natural shape with the jacket hanging at the widest point of the hips. In the latter half of the decade, sheaths – like the Givenchy suits– and high-waisted chemise dresses, introduced by Balenciaga in 1957, became popular. 

Chanel Suits

Few designers chose to break from the New Look model, but a couple paved the way. Coco Chanel hated the New Look so much that she reopened her business after closing it at the start of the war. In 1954, she came back with slim suits – the brand’s signature look – in wools and tweeds. Jackets were boxy with no collar, and skirts were straight and comfortable. She topped the look off with costume jewelry and the famous quilted bag. There were protests against Christian Dior to pull back his feminine silhouette which they thought symbolized the toxic gender roles. Since women found new freedom and independence during the war, they were not ready to give it up just yet and Coco Chanel backed this cause.

The fashion mood in the 50s leaned towards femininity and formality. Cocktail dresses hit the markets during this time, they were somewhere in between day wear and evening gowns. They resembled the length of day wear dresses but had decorative elements and the elegance of formal evening wear. Sheath and form fitting silhouettes were the popular fits while the popularity of the full skirted dresses remained status-quo. Fabrics were often luxurious, especially for evening wear. Velvet, tulle, silk, and satin were popular. Cotton and wool were often used for daywear, along with new synthetic fabrics. Polyester and rayon were used to make all kinds of clothing, from blouses and men’s shirts to dresses and suits.

Hats

The 1950s pillbox hat was another vintage hat style that was an icon of the decade. When summer rolls around, there is an explosion of wide brim 1950s sun hats for sale as well, while in winter fuzzy berets, stocking caps, and fur-trimmed bucket hats still keep women’s heads warm.

Men’s Fashion

Men who were mostly seen in military uniforms or budget suits were now transformed into a vibe of informality. “Youth Culture” was kick started by the men of this decade as they wore tight sweaters and sought collars. However suits never really faded as men assumed the roles of moneymakers, they had to look presentable. Men wore serious, somber business suits at their newly created office jobs, and leisure suits or slacks on weekends. Shoulders were broad and jackets were boxy. They were also expected to be well-groomed and put together, with suits and pants perfectly pressed. Read more about 1950s men’s fashion. Young men from poor backgrounds could now afford relatively expensive clothes and accessories and had the confidence to make them part of their own distinctive style.

Even as young men in both Europe and the United States began adopting new styles, formal daywear and eveningwear for men continued along the same lines throughout the 1950s. Suits sported the baggy shape that had started in the forties, while skinny ties rose to fame. The biggest difference in men’s formal wear was the increasing presence of color. Tuxedo accessories such as ties and cummerbunds added a pop of color, while less formal evening wear such as the smoking jacket might come in a color other than black. Color began to creep into daywear shirts and sweaters, as well. The Hawaiian shirt, first seen in the late forties, continued to be a popular option for men throughout the fifties.

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1950s Themed Movies

-The Godfather (1972)

-The Shawshank Redemption (1994)

Forrest Gump (1994)

1950’s Inspired Runway

References

-fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu, 1950-1959

-imdb.com

1940s- WW2

World War II began in the year 1939 and women‘s fashion took a new detour as they were influenced by men’s clothing, features such as high waists, functional aspects and wide legged pants became popular. Budget was also a concern just like the previous decade and the great depression. Men’s Fashion came to a standstill as they went away to serve their nations so a woman’s role was to take care of the household and also become providers by assuming job roles which were meant for the men. Women worked in factories to strike rivets.  1940s fashion took a turn to the utilitarian and functional style which were practical and effortless to achieve. Regardless of the war, the 1940s became a catalyst for some of the classic styles such as shirt dresses, wide leg bottoms, bikinis and pin up styles. Post war around 1947, women wanted to look feminine and retire to their traditional gender roles and responsibilities and preferred an overly feminine aesthetic introduced by Christian Dior.

Women’s Wear

Women began to gain an independence that was rare before the war as they stuck to their gender roles. But during the 40’s, they left their homes to work in offices and factories, earning and managing their own money. Clothing was heavily restricted throughout and just after the war — everything from the length of skirts to the size of collars was regulated. This resulted in a slim, straight silhouette. Women donned comfortable clothing like suits and shirtdresses, and even began to regularly wear pants, especially to work.

During the 1940s, UK, France and the US witnessed a distinct sense of fashion depending upon the impact of the war but they converged to a single style i.e., Dior’s NEW LOOK by the end of the century. Fashion in the regions impacted by war were dominated by rationing where utility clothing consisting of dresses and uniforms could be bought alongside rations and supplies. Women’s clothes took on a masculine militant look; They were simple, functional and practical. Components such as boxy silhouettes, padded shoulders, cinched in waist, tiny puffs and gathers on sleeves, angular necklines, and hems that end above the calf. All dress top designs were modest,  revealing very little skin compared to today’s fashion. 

Tweeds, solids, plaids were the popular fabrics and prints however as years progressed, a lot more fabrics were available for experimentation so to combat the depressing war atmosphere of the 40s, women embraced bright shades and contrasting trims. The scarcity of fabric also resulted in the popularity of the two-piece suit known as a Victory or Utility suit.  Women could mix and match skirts, blouses, and jackets for a new outfit every day. Even after the war, the suit remained popular due to its comfort and practicality. Overalls and coveralls were another workwear option. Made of blue denim or sturdy cotton, they have become a symbol of the 1940s.

The evening dresses however were a tad more feminine with spaghetti straps or halter topped. Skirts were long and sleek in the early years and full by the end of the decade. They were often paired with belts, messenger styled handbags and lace trimmed gloves.

Shoes

Footwear sported chunky heels, wedge heels, slip on shoes and oxford or saddle shoes. 

SWIMSUITS AND BEACHWEAR

Swimsuits primarily came as one piece but they split into two distinct top and bottom wear with high waists. The neckline was a V but revealed little cleavage. A halter top style was very popular as well. The suit bottom came to the top of the thigh in either a skirt shape or slightly loose shorts. One piece suits of the 40s became more form fitting and sported thin shoulders.

Hair 

Women’s 1940s hairsdos were designed to be worn under hats as well as be beautiful without head accessories. The length grew out from the short 30s waves to shoulder length loose curls. Teens and young ladies wore their hair down with the sides rolled and pinned away from the face. Mature women had hair styled into Victory Rolls, soft waves, bigger rolls, and tucks that brought the hair up to new heights while framing the face subtly. 

Men’s Wear

Men’s clothing was also subject to strict guidelines and rules: single-breasted jackets ditched double-breasted styles, while lapel size and the number of pockets were controlled; similarly, less material was to be used in the tailoring of trousers, as rationing and budget was important when it came to men’s outfits as well and use of excess fabric caused unrest. Men believed in reusing their suits as much as possible instead of purchasing new ones. Utility suits were also used by men but the overall aesthetic of their style didn’t change much since the 30s. Since most men went away to war, if they were seen around town, they would be spotted wearing their military uniforms.

Though uniforms were largely popular, “zoot suit” evolved from the popular “drape” suits that were seen on the dance floor in Harlem in the 1930s. By the early 1940s, it was a style worn predominately by minority working-class men. The suit consisted of an oversized blazer and voluminous trousers that were tapered at the ankle to avoid tripping. The look was completed with a wide tie.

1940s inspired Fashion

Temperly London Fall 2018

1940s Themed Movies

-Coco Before Chanel (2009)

-Atonement (2007)

-The Black Dahlia (2006)

References

fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu, 1940-1949

Recreating 90’s Grunge Looks

Fad, Micro and Macro trends

References

–

https://www.today.com/style/drop-crotch-jeans-trend-hot-or-horrible-flna1c8544296

-https://medium.com/cameliocase/a-brief-history-of-a-transparent-trend-7a1fd9f4a1a

-https://www.deborahweinswig.com/athleisure-and-sneaker-culture-are-changing-mainstream-fashion/

-photogallery.indiatimes.com/celebs/celeb-themes/hotties-in-naked-dress/lady-gaga-poses-in-a-red-net-dress/articleshow/47528058.cms

–http://www.glamour.com/story/celebrity-athleisure-outfit-ideas

Trend Forecast Report-SS 2022

The current state of affairs with the virus has caused a paradigm shifting experience for every citizen alike. Our lives have been flooded with unpredictability, uncertainty, fear, financial insecurities, people working from home, loss of jobs, emotional roller coaster rides and physical exhaustion. There is a major change in the lifestyle of people where efforts are made by them to adjust and adapt to the new reality. Globally, the dependence on technology for a digital connection with others, has increased exponentially. We are undeniably at the brink of the fourth technological revolution with the introduction of 5G and Wi-Fi 6; People are practically living their lives online! Due to these technological advancements as well as the ongoing global crises, there will be a prominent change in the mindset of consumers, their behaviors, perceptions, expectations and buying patterns.

The current situation has hit each consumer differently. While some are financially stable, others are trying to make ends meet. The emotional state and their sentiments vary. As unpredictable as these trying times are, they will not last forever, the world will bounce back very soon and when it does, there will emerge groups of people with a outlook. There are three major categories of prospective buyers for the year 2022. i.e., type 1, 2 and 3 and each group have their own unique mindsets, expectations, sentiments and perceptions and WGSN, the biggest trend forecasting platform claims that no matter how different each customer group is from one another but what remains the same is the yearning for an environment which is safe, positive and stable.

A survey conducted throughout US aimed to reveal what the respondents wish too see when it comes to ads, messages or campaigns on social media, television or print media; Messages which exude positivity, reassurance and bring about a sense of security are the type of content the majority of the people preferred to see. Majority of the respondents wished to see content which evoked the feelings and emotions of positivity, reassurance and security. They wished to not come across promotional contents which are posted with an intent to gain a profit by pushing down ads down the throats of the viewers, in the difficult times instead of engaging the community. As this ordeal becomes somewhat stabilized brands will have to restructure their alter product categories and aim to create products which make the wearer feel good and spread awareness about these products using smart marketing campaigns. And how can they do this? Well, the answer lies ahead. Read on! So, it is clear that brands will have to create products which are practical and cheerful.

So we know that people want certainty, we know that they want stability and we know that they need security and a sense of optimism as well. These sentiment shifts will reshape our economies, our industries and daily lives, and will result in new product priorities and shopper strategies which will prove crucial for so many businesses, who really need to think about resilience planning.”

The colors for SS 22 have been predicted already and they are orchid, olive, yellowish-cream, mango yellow, and atlantic blue. Head of Color at WGSN, the shades are selected to make people feel uplifted and energized while staying grounded and balanced.” Muted and diffused colors of the rainbow undoubtedly spread happy vibes. Head of Color at WGSN, the shades are “driven by a desire to be uplifted and energized while staying grounded and balanced.”

Category

Athleisure and loungewear have emerged as growth categories and this is not to be overlooked for adjacent category opportunities: broaden comfort loungewear, bodywear, leggings, second-skins, stretch, and athleisure ranges with fresh print stories.

-Sustainable -Locally Produced -Value -Simple Product Assortments

WGSN has predicted retro florals, dainty flowers ginghams, abstract prints, abstract textures and graphic animal prints, backing our key stories for intimates and sleepwear.

art-based prints and collabs have grown in popularity due to a focus on craft and as an alternative to digital. Follow these hashtags for more inspiration: #artinfashion #artistspotlight #expressiveprints #brushstroke

Using tie dye technique to perfectly achieve the ombre effect and using positive slogans inspired by 60’s hippie movement which is apt with wgsn’s print

Due to self isolation, people have been trying out new crafts and trying to perfect skills so a diy inspired technique such as tie dye can catch people’s eyes.

Range

1930’s-The Great Depression

As the time progressed from 1920s to 30s, women’s fashion turned more feminine from the very loose, boxy, drop-waist, shapeless, high knee-length hem and he overall boyish or garçonne look to a modest yet form-fitting style with an accentuated natural high waist, fitted hips, longer mid-calf or floor length hemlines, high necklines, and wide shoulders. Tailored, modest, fitted, feminine and elegant are the words that describe the aesthetics of 1930s fashion.

1930s beauty standards were a tad unrealistic where tall and a slender figure with narrow hips and waists were considered to be attractive. 

Fashion Plates consisting of illustrated figures endorsing the dresses they wore, in catalogues, ads and magazines were so tall and slender that they hardly resembled an average real life woman. To mimic the look of these illustrated women and the beauty standards, the dresses worn by women who didn’t have a slender figure naturally, were seen with exaggerated sleeves with puffs, shoulder pads, wide collars, humongous cap sleeves and a form fitted bodice so that their hips and waists appear smaller in comparison to the top. The lingerie helped achieve this particular aesthetic as well.

Fashion was overshadowed by the wave of economic depression which hit in the early 30s and people were not in a position to spare money for clothing but that was no excuse to be dressed sloppy. A woman was entrusted with the task of looking smart, up to date with the trends and at the same time being frugal by feeding and dressing the entire household by managing her husband’s income. Despite the depression women splurged on cosmetics, especially single working women who were expected to look their best while at their jobs.

The fashion industry underwent many changes during this decade in response to the severe economic hardships of the time. Factory-made garments (what we now refer to as “ready-to-wear”) became popular because clothing could be mass produced for far less than made-to-order custom garments. The insurgence of ready-to-wear fueled the buy-at-home catalog market.

Made-to-measure garments became less popular and people opted for ready to wear, mass produced and affordable products. Economical fabrics which were rough in texture were preferred. 

HOUSE DRESSES

Cotton House Dresses as the name suggests were worn by women only at the comfort of their homes or while visiting the neighbors. They followed the silhouette and trend of the 1930s and had bold prints such as flowers and polka dots. 

A reversible house wrap dress called “hooverette” was a practical, affordable and a comfortable cotton attire with ruffle sleeves, tied waist, hugging hips.

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  Dresses

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  Afternoon Dresses

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  Hooverette

AFTERNOON DRESSES

For outdoor activities such as running errands, tea, shopping, a woman would wear an afternoon or a day dress which were also called city or town tailored dresses which carried a lot more details than a house dress, such as embroidery, buttons, bows, ruches and trims. While the house dresses were adorned with bright bold prints, the town dresses were of solid colors with muted prints. Silk, rayon, crepe were the ideal choice of materials for this dress. They also were accompanied by belts sitting slightly above the natural waist.

Sack Dresses

Flour Sack Dresses

Times were tough during the great depression and women of the house were trying to make the ends meet so they used the fabric from the sacks that the flour came in, to make clothing for themselves and their children. When the manufacturers caught a wind of this, they manufactured the sacks with a myriad of different prints and clothing patterns to be cut out and stitched. DIY was widespread during this time; It’s estimated that during the Depression, 3.5 million women and children were wearing clothing and using items home-made from flour sacks. The sacks often had outlines of dolls so that people could cut them out, stuff them and the children could use them as toys. The bags had the logo of the company printed in washable ink and the instructions to wash them off were also present.

Evening Dresses

Evening Dresses 

Apart from the signature silhouette, fabrics such as chiffon, silk crepe, and satin were cut on bias at 45 degrees from the weave, were popular. Due to this, the fabric’s drape was exceptional and they hugged the body in all the right places. The evening dresses were slinky, plunging backs (signature style), feminine, flared out at the bottom and their hems almost touched the floor and a train of fabric was left behind. Women wore a fur wrap or a coat on top of their dresses.

Surrealistic Fashion

Designer of the Decade

Elsa Schiaparelli gained popularity in the early 1920s as a freelance designer, she upped the ante in the 1930s by collaborating with artists such as Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau and Christian Bérard who drew surrealistic motifs for her collections. The clothing had avant garde embellishments and details which would eventually become her signature style, including features like well tailored structured shoulders, cinched in waists. Elsa showed her first ever collection in the year 1929 and took people by storm with her inventive designs. Her salon in Paris was swarmed by people after each collection hit the shelves.

Men’s Wear

Day attires of men were inclusive of casual knitted sweaters and collared-shirts. They became less formal compared to the fashion of the previous decade. When suits were worn in the evening or for work, the pants were tapered unlike the oxford bags which were wide. Tuxedos were increasingly popular among men even in warm climates; the jackets had wide padded shoulders and tapered sleeves. A lot of styles were inspired by the military such as bomber jackets and trench coats.  The go-to look was trousers, paired with soft collared shirts, long coats and a pair of boots.

1930s Inspired Fashion

Paco Rabanne AW 19

Peter Pilotto AW 19

References

-1930-1939, fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu

-1930s fashion, vintagedancer.com

Roaring 1920s- The Jazz Age

The decade of 1920s was driven by cultural changes as the world was recovering from the after effects of the First World War. The hemlines rose and became more feminine as women had the right to self expression. It was the start of the jazz age where people seemed carefree, youthful and free. A new women’s wardrobe developed which sported the tubular “la garçonne” ensemble also called as the flapper style, with a dropped waist and shorter hemlines. This way of dressing of the 1920s showed a stark contrast to the layers and formal attires which were predominantly seen during the first world war. 

Cultural & Social Influences on Fashion

1920s earmarked the beginning of the Jazz Era from the city of New Orleans. Louis Armstrong and Duke Ellington were popular musicians in the US, where alcohol was prohibited throughout the decade and the term the ‘Roaring Twenties’ was applied to the period. There was a lot of dancing and singing going on to celebrate the end of the war and so the dresses were adorned with tassels and embellishments which moved to the music as the wearer did. The color palette was dominated by metallic shades of silver, gold, bronze and blacks, browns etc.

Art Deco was a popular art and architectural style of the century which had an undeniable influence on fashion in terms of  the structured lines, squares and pyramid shapes. 

There was a rise in consumerism as the aftereffects of the war rendered the class system powerless. Different classes and races mingled together to bask in the newfound freedom as well as the influence of the flourishing industry of Hollywood, successfully placed the fashion industry under the limelight.

Political Influence

Women before 1920s did not possess the right to vote, they were just reduced to the roles of caretakers of the households and children. Their opinions were unheard and did not possess the right to make decisions for themselves. In the early 1920s, the women began abandoning their traditional roles and started carrying on protests in favor of getting a bill passed to enable women to vote. They were bolder, active, outspoken, educated, sporty and worked in offices. They broke free from the cains of restrictive clothing and sought out comfortable silhouettes and bold make up. Finally, Passed by Congress June 4, 1919, and ratified on August 18, 1920, the 19th amendment granted women the right to vote.

Flapper Girls

The Flapper Style

The iconic flapper style caught the wind in mid 1920s with its androgynous look which was contrasting to the feminine demure of the previous decade. It was essentially a short, waist less and formless shift dress which gave no emphasis to the waist or hips. These dresses were easy to make at home by anyone with economically priced fabrics so the middle class women took advantage of this to blend in with the upper class. Not everyone was a flapper girl, the ones who were, were infamous for their rebellious, loud, carefree nature. They smoked in public places and wore their hems as high as a mini dress, over the top makeup, rode automobiles.

The Chemise Dress

The chemise dress was worn as day and evening wear from the beginning of 1916. It was a loose shift dress which hung from the shoulders and the hems reached below the knees. Waistlines dropped to the hips. Loose belts were often worn on top. The modern drop waisted dresses are inspired by this style. At that time, it was popularized by designers such as Coco Chanel, Callot Seours, Jeanne Lanvin.

Fashion Designers

LBD

Coco Chanel was a prominent designer during the period. By launching her little black dress which is so popular even to this date in 1926, Coco Chanel endorsed the validity of black as a fashionable color and soon the LBD in the shift silhouette became a must have in every girl’s wardrobe. She demonstrated a simple homespun wisdom in recognizing the colors capacity to flatter any figure.. She guided women recognize flattering colors such as black, navy, cream and white. She had a major influence on the silhouettes of 1920s. Chanel’s designs were the epitome of elegance and sophistication.

Lanvin’s Mother-daughter outfits

Jeanne Lanvin was popularly known during the decade for selling soft pastel mother-daughter outfits. Her outfits carried embellishments, embroideries and elegant trims. Jeanne peaked by eventually starting a men’s wear line in 1926 and was known as a couturier to dress the whole family. She popularized the chemise look although the inventor of the dropped waistline is debatable as some say it is Chanel and some claim dropped waists were seen in Lanvin’s designs as far back as 1914. 

Elsa Schiaparelli’s sense of style also shaped the aesthetics of the mid 1920 and 30s. She worked as a freelance designer and flourished soon after acquiring a declining fashion brand with a friend. She was the mastermind behind a hand-knit pullover with black and white trompe-l’œil motifs which were soon declared as an ingenious masterpiece by Vogue as it became a staple throughout the US. She is also known for her surrealistic designs. 

Illustrators were hired by magazines to capture the essence of the dress via drawing as photographers were not readily available to capture the models wearing the outfits so instead fashion plates which were grids of illustrated version of the garments were publish for the general public’s awareness.

Egyptian Influence

During this era, the mummy of King Tut was discovered and the world was bewitched with Egyptian Culture. Artists, architects, and designers looked to Egyptian ornamentation and motifs—scarabs, lotus flowers, snakes, and falcons, among many others—to enhance and inspire their creations. The stylized, geometric nature of these motifs dovetailed nicely with other aspects of what would come to define the Art Deco aesthetic or zeitgeist.

Egyptian Beaded Sheath Dress’ influence on 1920s boxy gowns

Makeup & Hair

As there was a consumeristic boom in the roaring 1920s. Cosmetics were sold in stores and pharmacies. Big names in the industry which are still functional today kickstarted their business during this time; Max Factor, Maybelline, Elizabeth Arden, Tangee etc.

Girls were seen smoking and they wore the go to evening make up look Red Cupid Bow lips, pink rouged cheeks, kohl lined and shadowed eyes, droopy, tired looking eyebrows along with flapper dresses and chemises.

Women chopped their hair into a short bob with waves to resemble the masculine look.

Men’s Wear

Men’s wear during the 1920s comprised of suiting and the war put an end to the predeceasing decade’s three piece suiting. The conservative suit was popular during the beginning which has a tight and narrow shouldered jacket, high-waisted pants that created a thin silhouette. Men started wearing knickboxers and soon switched to wide legged trousers called as oxford bags to hide the boxers underneath.

Shorter suit jackets were considered as everydaywear and longer tailed coats were saved for formal events. Fedora Hats were popular amongst women but eventually was picked up by a few gangsters and was worn by everyone after a while. Footwear comprised of formal dress shoes which were patent leather brogues. As it was the age of Jazz, the colors of the suits became lighter and more colorful when worn in the evening.

1920s Inspired Fashion Collections

Gucci SS 2012

Ralph Lauren SS 2012

References-

-mens-fashion.lovetoknow.com, Men’s Fashion in the 1920s

-glamourdaze.com, History of Women’s 1920s Fashion 

Fashion Life Cycle

A pair of sunglasses is the ultimate practical accessory as a few of the iconic pieces like wayfarers and aviators have come from the utilitarian military use. Each decade marks the emphasis on either the aspect of utility or fashion based on the events which were happening around that time. So, it suggests that the pendulum is swinging back and forth towards small-sized and jumbo sunglasses.

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The 60’s zeitgeist leaned towards huge sunglasses, cat eyes popularized by Audrey Hepburn were feminine and functional, followed by Mod sunglasses worn by Twiggy.

The 70’s was hit with a wave of small sized, circular tea shades worn by John Lennon and followed by the disco trend bringing back size to the glasses which almost entirely covered the eyes.

The 80’s saw a rise in futuristic and oversized sunglasses and Ray-Ban’s wayfarers popularized by Tom Cruise, followed by browlines and Ray-Ban’s aviators.

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After a few decades of giant to-medium sized lenses, the sunglass zeitgeist was tiny or micro in the 90’s. The colors were mostly dark but tinted colorful frames returned in neon colors. 

The viewers were inspired by other popular celebrities like Susan Sarandon, Princess Diana, River Phoenix, Julia Roberts, Winona Ryder. It was also spotted on the Runway collections of Dior, John Galliano.

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90’s Bollywood was heavily saturated with the micro sunglasses in fact I know my folks owned a few pairs as well.

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Retail VS Boutique

It is paramount to understand the differences between a retail store and a boutique if you’re planning to launch your own business or looking to purchase. Often times we think think that these terms are interchangeable but they most assuredly are not. There are many parameters through which you can differentiate a retail store from a boutique.

Make

A retail outlet mostly buys from different fashion brands and sells it under one roof. Recently, we can see retail stores with their in house brand and design team. Outfits cannot be customized as the designs are put together by the designers by analyzing the trend and demand. In other words, retails offer a variety of ready-to-wear garments.

A boutique offers made-to-measure and niche clothing. They may not contain that many options as a retail but what they do have, are customized to the customer’s wants and needs. The boutique is often owned by a designer who design the clothes themselves and also employ those people who have a real passion for the art of making clothes. The quality of these items are leaps and bounds higher when compared to ready to wear.

Location, size and accessibility.

Retail store’s size can vary anywhere from 20,000 to 1,00,000 sq feet where as a boutique can be as small as 1000 sq ft. Typically, a retail store owned by a business giant will have multiple branches located at prime locations of different cities as well as an online platform where as a boutique will have a quaint standalone stores or a block of space in a mall or plaza and an online presence.

Inventory

Since retail houses have a myriad of product ranges such as clothing, jewelry, accessories, home and decor… they have a separate warehouse which ships to outlets located nationwide to replenish their stock on a daily or weekly basis. The number of customer walk-ins of a retail establishment can range up to a minimum of 500 and the upper limit can vary depending upon the size, products and location of the store so, it is necessary for them to maintain good stock at all times of the week.

Boutiques do not have quantity sellers so their range is limited. Even if the choose to sell a variety of products, the quantity in stock for each category will be very low because they do not expect to sell a large number and due to the fact that they do not have or require humongous storage spaces like a warehouse.

Ownership

A retail store is owned by MNCs who operate in a larger scale whereas boutiques are product of passion of individuals who like to indulge in the art of dressmaking.

Owners of retail establishments are businessmen/women whose aspire to follow their entrepreneurial dreams and as a result they bring to life a venture which caters to the needs of the many. On the other hand, the idea of a boutique revolves around a designer or individual’s passion for fashion and so they handcraft or buy niche items to turn their dreams into a profitable venture.

Price

Boutiques have limited quantities of items with higher price tag as they are exclusive pieces which are high in quality, customized and often handmade. Clothing and accessories housed in retail store are quantity sellers; meaning per-unit price a product is low but the quantity sold is very high.

Environmental Impact

Retails often sell fast fashion and affordable luxury so these products generally have a low life time and end up in landfills. fashion sold a boutiques can be considered as slow fashion as they’re tailor made, bespoke ensemble which are high in quality and longevity so, their shelf life is higher compared to fast fashion.

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Boutique

Online Store: https://thechalkboutique.com/

Standalone Store: Survey No: 8, Whitefield Main Road, Whitefield, above Cocoon Day Spa, Bengaluru, Karnataka 560066

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Retail Outlet

Online Store: https://www.pantaloons.com/

Branches: 20(standalone and mall) stores in Bangalore

References:

-store vs boutique- smallbusiness.chron.com

Haute Couture 101

Haute Couture (pronounced as oot ka-cheoor) translates to ‘High Dressmaking’. The concept became popular around the mid 19th century. A Couturier or the creator of Haute Couture makes handmade dresses of high quality for a private clientele. The pieces are made-to-order and customized to a person’s liking and no two garments look the same to preserve exclusivity. Making of Haute Couture garments requires exquisite craftsmanship because it is labor intensive as well as time consuming.
A couturier alongside his team indulge in intense brainstorming to decide a theme and inspiration for the dresses and go through great lengths to make the dresses; which is why Haute Couture garments sport an extravagant price range. If a place on earth is known to be proficient in a type of skill that the couturier is seeking, then he goes out of his way to either outsource the work there or import the necessities from that region to include in his collection which is typically classified into day & evening dresses as well as dresses & suits.

Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture

Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture previously known as Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, came into force on 1868 to join their hands with emerging fashion designers who, with their potential would later revolutionize French fashion and unearth its roots whilst also employing contemporary methods of dressmaking. Haute Couture is a harmonious marriage between traditional know-hows and modern techniques that birthed an era of cutting edge innovation where there is a free flow of progress. Each year, the governing council and its members lay out the official rule book which was coined in 1945. The basic rules include:

1. The Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture whose members are only those companies designated as Haute Couture. 
2. The Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode Which includes Haute Couture houses and fashion designers also producing Mode Féminine (women’s ready-to-wear). 
3. The Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Masculine which includes men’s ready-to-wear brands and designers.

The federation through its school, L’école de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture lends a helping hand to foster innovation and sharpen the skills of potential couturiers. They also support existing members of the council with finance, marketing, communication, politics, tech, cultural and political arenas. 

Haute Couture Rules & Prerequisites

Couture can be created by anyone but the making of Haute Couture on the other hand, remains in the hands of a select few. To be designated as a Haute Couture House or a Couturier, one must meet the following prerequisites:

1. A potential designer can only be invited by an existing member 
2. Have a Parisian Atelier(studio) 
3. Select foreign houses can also join 
4. Employ 15 full-time staff 
5. 20 full-time technical personnel 
6. Skilled seamstresses 
7. Provide 1-3 fittings 
8. Present 35-50 ensembles twice a year, in a show Include both day and evening wear in the collection 
9. Undertake a Couturier Oath, swearing not to make the same piece twice and can be banned from the community if he does. 
10. The garments must be hand-made intricately and the use of mechanism can be made if it can expedite the process 
11. Make dresses only for a private clientele 
12. Have a hush-hush guest list monitored by the council for their shows

Haute Couture Facts

The world of Haute Couture is very hush-hush. Here are a few interesting factoids about it.

• Only 3-4 thousand people around the world can afford 
• Haute Couture so it has a very minuscule number of clients 
• Couturiers can be very picky with their clients as they prefer to make dresses only for certain body types.
• A couture house can also reject a client 
• The ramp walks are open to a very private clientele, press and a few celebrities who are the highest spenders 
• If a brand is invited to a show 4 times in a row then it becomes a Haute Couture house 
• Haute Couture’s fashion weeks recently found it’ s online presence 
• Haute Couture is dying, mainly because it’s labor intensive and time consuming to make as well as the lack of funds 
• One garment can take up to 700+ days to complete 
• The council has set no rules for artistic expression 
• The ramp walks are considered to be more of an art exhibition 
• The designs showcased on the ramp trickle down to the retail stores. 
• Vintage clothing can be auctioned off at popular auction houses called Sotheby’s and Christies. They often fetch a huge money.
• Owners of these pieces of art often maintain a card where they record the days when they’ve used these garments to. 
• A piece cannot be auctioned off if the prospective buyer feels that it has been heavily used

References

-All About Haute Couture- fhcm.paris

-Basics of Couture- observer.com

-French Clothing- fluentu.com

Manufacturing Flow

Clothing manufacturing includes numerous operations necessary to make a garment. It includes processes like cutting, sewing and finishing. The whole manufacturing process breaks down into a number of sub-operations needed for constructing a particular garment. Some of these operations vary depending on the type of equipment available, work methods used and workers’ skills.

One of the key elements of apparel manufacturing is production planning. Production planning ensures that each operation is performed with maximum efficiency. It also helps foresee every step in a huge number of daily operations. As well as managing manpower, machines, materials and payments.

Manufacturing process management (MPM) is a collection of technologies and methods used to define how products are to be manufactured.

The factory system is a method of manufacturing using machinery and division of labour. This is because of the high capital cost of machinery and factory buildings, factories were typically privately owned by wealthy individuals who employed the operative labour. Use of machinery with the division of labour reduced the required skill level of workers and also increased the output per worker.

The flow structure of manufacture is used to make a product or a service; it contains numerous operations necessary to make the said product/service. These operations are further broken down into micro-processes needed to finish the product/service. It requires work methods, resources, layout, worker’s skills, equipment, technology, facility and resources. It is important to choose the right kind of process for the type of product and thus planning it crucial. Unit per hour and efficiency can surge if a business opts for the right method, amount of manpower, tech, materials and their venture will yield high profits.

Here are the various flows:

1. Job Shop

A job shop is the most flexible manufacturing process out there and conversely it’s efficiency turnover is very low. It is tailor made for businesses that make custom products in small quantities. Most of the products produced need their own unique setup and sequence of finishing and so it isn’t necessary for all the activities to be performed on all the products and it is not necessary that they go through the same sequence. Since the products are customized, a job process unit generally has basic equipment and the knowledge and skill of the workers is paramount in order to decide the process and sequence needed.

For example: A white shirt in the making needs its fabric to be cut in patterns so it is sent to the pattern makers while a black top in the making needs to dyed black so it is sent to the dye bath. The shirt needs buttons attached so it is sent to the tailor of the unit where as the black top doesn’t require any buttons so it is sent for packing.

So, the activity is only passed through a certain process and in the order of sequence specifically required by it.

2. Batch Process.

Batch manufacturing is a style of manufacturing which compiles the different components of a product through a sequence of processes usually in a line. This basically means that the raw materials move through the production line in batches, so that there is a pause between each step as a batch moves through. It is ideal for businesses that receive a specific quantities of order. The production line maybe difficult to streamline but once it’s set in place, it cannot be budged. The efficiency is high. Each range of product has a different production run and so it can be time consuming to put together a new run for a new product.

For example: In batch manufacturing the soap will go through each of these steps in batches. Let’s imagine each batch is 20 pieces of soap. That means that until 20 pieces of soap are saponified there will be no drying done on any of those pieces. But when all 20 pieces are saponified they will be moved into the inventory to then be picked up again by the next process of drying. 

3. Assembly Line Process

Assembly Line Process is the most popular kind of method followed in the automobile and garment industry. It is very similar to batch process where there is a line process set in a sequence which is ideal for a brand which focuses on mass production as it is cost effective and less time consuming. A conveyor belt is usually next to the line. This process divides labor by breaking up the manufacture of a product into steps that are completed in a pre-defined sequence. It requires low-skilled laborers who can be taught a particular process in the sequence and they would learn that and do only that, perfectly over time as eventually their step becomes etched into their muscle memory; like they say practice makes perfect. Breaking the process up and assigning one person to a job rather than hiring expensive skilled workers to do every process themselves. So, we can say that the flow of the process is connected.

Assembly line with regards to the garment industry is divided into two methods:

-Progressive Bundle System 

Where each worker does a different operation of a garment on machines which are laid out in a line. Cut patterns of fabric is made into a bundle and when a worker receives it, and does her part of the process for all the pieces in the bundle and moves it along on a conveyor to the next worker who completes their part and so on. This system ensures quality and uniformity across all the pieces made as a single worker is so adept at doing their part that they’ve aced the art. Progressive Production System is ideal for expo-oriented companies who produce huge quantities of products.

-One Piece Flow System

Instead of making a bundle of multiple pieces, a bundle is made with all components of a single piece. Sewing machines in One-piece-flow system can be laid in a straight line or modular line. The main difference is that the operator will receive one piece from the back and move one piece to his next operator after completing his work. Benefits of One-piece-Flow system are less throughput time, Less WIP in the line. 

A bundle is made from components of a single unit instead of multiple pieces; the operator will receive one piece from the back and move it to the next person once their process is done. Here the machines can be laid out in a line or in a modular form. It is not as rigid compared to progressive bundle system.

4. Modular System

In Modular production system tailors work as a team. Neither they sew complete garment nor do they sew only single piece. Multi-skilled tailors form a group/module and each of the team members do multiple processes. In a modular system, workers help each other to finish the garment quickly and the module is fully responsible for quality and production. In modular, always team performance is measured instead of individual performance. This system is very successful where quick response is needed along with measurable KPIs.

CLICK HERE to read about Okhai and its Modular Production System.

5. Continuous Manufacturing Process

In continuous manufacturing, the process of the standard products is carried in a flow basis at a predetermined rate. The mass production of a product is carried on continuously for stock in anticipation of demand. Due to the production of the standardized products, the product design tends to be constant. The number of operations and the sequence of operations remain more or less same. Continuous manufacturing is most suitable to process companies such as the chemicals industry, oil refineries, food processing etc., and can also be applied to assembling factories such as automobiles, radios, refrigerators, typewriters, and similar products.

6. Make-Through System

When a worker makes a product and finishes it all by himself is called make-through system. For example: A tailor reads the design, cuts patterns, stitches it and ads finishes to it. This method can be popularly seen in tailoring shops where one worker finishes a garment all by himself. The flow is non-existent as a single worker completes the sequence all by himself.

References

-Sewing System -apparelresources.com

-Manufacturing Processes- investopedia.com

-HOW BATCH PROCESSING DIFFERS FROM CONTINUOUS FLOW PROCESSING- generalkinematics.com

Marketing Mix

Marketing Mix the base of a business plan; it’s the strategies, actions or actions taken a by a company to promote its name, service or product. It helps you to define your marketing strategies with regards to the following parameters… price, product, promotion, place so that your offering meets a specific customer need or want. It helps identify the strengths, weaknesses, opportunities, threats, competitiveness and adaptability.

All the elements of the marketing mix influence on one another. They make up the business strategy for a company and if handled right, can yield great results, conversely if handled wrong and the business could take years to bounce back. The marketing mix needs a lot of understanding, market research and consultation with several people, from users to trade to manufacturing and other players in the market.

Traditionally, the marketing mix out together by E. Jerome McCarthy were product, price, place and promotion and have been the cornerstone of a successful marketing strategy for over 50 years however, with the rise of social media, digital marketing has become the crux of any given brand’s marketing strategies that offer new ways to meet consumers’ needs and customize messaging for audiences that expect personalization.. The 4 new P’s are partnership, process, performance and pedigree.

To read about other domains in the Fashion Industry, CLICK HERE

-Product

1. Is there a need for this product/service in the first place?
2. What are the customer’s expectations?
3. Will this product/service be able to solve the particular problem with ease?
4. What does the product/service look like or consist of?
5. What will it be called?
6. What am you doing to make my product/service better than that of your competitors?
7. What will happen after you launch my product/service?
8. How can it penetrate the market fully?
9. What changes/upgrades can you make to the product/service once it reaches maturity in the life cycle?
10. Will you introduce a new product/service range? If yes, when?

-Price

Low price brands often copy the market leaders and may be generic own brands, such as those produced by supermarket chains. The main purpose of price here is to indicate value for- money and such brands do not expect customers to show loyalty.

Product pricing is connected to it’s perceived value. Economically priced items will expect a higher volume of sales while luxury items achieve the same revenue with low quantities but high per-unit price.

There are some products which aren’t price sensitive, they’re so unique and aspirational that customers are willing to pay whatever the price tag states. This also results in customer loyalty. Ex: iPhones

• market penetration, where a new product has economical to attract a high volume of sales
• market skimming where a new product/service has premium pricing to give high returns whilst the product/service is one of a kind in the market
• premium pricing, where there is a uniqueness and exclusiveness about the product so that it can conjure a high price
• economy pricing, which are basic products, where the costs of manufacture and marketing are kept to a minimum.

1. What are the prices set by the competitors? Are your prices going to be at par with theirs?
2. If not, what is so special about your product that a customer should feel compelled to pay the premium?
3. Is your selling price going to cover the cost of manufacturing and leave a profit margin?
4. Should you choose cost-based pricing or market oriented pricing?
5. Is the the product worth the price?
6. What offers to provide?
7. What strategies to use during the off-season?

-Place

This refers both to the places where your products may be bought and to the channels of distribution used to deliver the products to these places.

Place is not always a physical building such as a supermarket or shop, but includes any means by which the product is made available to the buyer. It can be online, stores, pyramid schemes, catalogs etc., A business has to balance getting enough of its products to its target customers against the problems or costs of distributing them. 

For a premium or luxury brand, making the products too easily available might reduce the perceived value of the brand. This illustrates the need to select carefully how the marketing mix is put together to match the product to the needs of the target market.

1. Where do customers look for your product or service?
2. If they look in a physical store, what kind? A standalone store, boutique or in a supermarket, online, via a catalog?
3. How can you reach the right distribution channels?
4. What do your competitors do, and what can you learn from that and/or differentiate?

-Promotion

It is important to promote the product/service one is offering to raise awareness of it and to obtain as well as retain customers.

• Where and when can you get your promotional ads across to your target market?
• Will you reach your target customers by advertising in a selected channel?
• When is the best time to put out ads? Is there seasonality in the market?
• What are your competitors’ promotional strategies? And how does that influence your choice of promotional activity?
• Weather to employ ‘above-the-line’, which is using independent media to reach a wide audience easily, but over which your company may have limited control, for example, magazine advertising. This reaches a maximum amount of readers but can be hard to measure its impact.
• Or to use ‘below-the-line’, which uses media over which your business has control, for example, direct mailing. This type of promotion can be more cost-effective and give more measurable response rates.

Mediums through which you can promote:

• direct mail – catalogues, newsletters via by post or email
• exhibitions or events
• sales promotions – such as discounts, coupons or competitions
• public relations – press conferences or CSR
• sponsorship
• product placement – to celebrities or influencers.
• branding

-Pedigree

Pedigree refers to the ethical practices and the values that a brand believes in. Some brands aim to create sustainable products while other aim more towards employee happiness or some focus on zero wastage and recycling. Each company has it’s own goal with regards to how it wants to be perceived in the eyes of the public.

To read how ethical practices have become the crux of a fashion brand, CLICK HERE

Want to know why Sustainability is the new Black? CLICK HERE

-Partnership

The web which is a true people-driven communication channel, the key to effective communication is personalization. There is a major diversity among people who exist online, each with their own tastes and interests. For example you can appeal to a Star Wars fan by quoting the movie’s lines and turn it into an add.

Every netizen is an influencer, a public figure, a blogger, a vlogger, a reviewer, an unboxer, a customer. It is indeed a great platform to get word of mouth going which can work in your favor or against. So, it is very easy to know what the customers are expecting and respond to their grievances. Adopting a steadfast Customer Relationship Management strategy can improve teamwork, customer relationships and retention.

-Process and Performance

Streamlining your process to improve consumer relationships starts with a few key questions:

• Is your product/service ready for today’s marketing environment? Is it too outdated or futuristic?
• What elements would help you market to the correct viewers, stay relevant, personalize messaging at larger scale, and respond to interest effective immediately?
• How can you translate your company’s vision, needs and goals into a fully functional marketing strategy?
• Can you justify the budget and quantify return? Is the budget justifiable and the return quantifiable?
• Are the right stakeholders, bandwidth, competency, and partners at your side?

The best platforms in the world won’t mean much unless you’re collecting data around the success of your organization. Some of the essential key performance indicators for measuring the success of your CRM are customer service, customer engagement, loyalty, response time, conversion, and advocacy.

References

-Marketing Mix- economictimes.indiatimes.com

-the new 4Ps of digital marketing- clickz.com

Sub-Brands of Ralph Lauren

Business Model of A Brand

Okhai.org established in the year 2002, is an e-commerce company formed under the wing of Tata Chemicals Society for Rural Development (TCSRD, 1980), society and trust established by the Tata Group for the socio-economic, environmental and overall development of rural/semi-urban societies established Okhai(.org) in the year 2002 to provide a livelihood to the citizens of Okhamandal, a remote village in Gujarat which is home to many semi-nomadic tribes like the Rabaris, Vaghers and Ahirs. The women of this village are skilled artisans who specialize in Appliqué needlework, Heer Bharat, Kathi and Bead Work.

Okhai clothes are mostly solid fabrics adorned with dainty and intricate embroidery or prints. All their motifs are inspired by nature, shapes, ancient crafts and the surroundings. They have seasonal collections being spring-summer and autumn-winter; the choice of colors are apt as they go for lighter and brighter tones for summers and darker for winters. Okhai designers find an inspiration, set themes and work on the collection in accordance with the theme.

Okhai offers handcrafted apparel and lifestyle products which are Fair Trade Certified. It is a contemporary brand that constitutes ladies’ wear, men’s wear, home décor products and accessories, all of which are adorned with mirror work, patchwork, hand blocks, or embroidery, created as a vibrant expression of the rural way of life, rituals and legends. The materials used are sourced locally and directly from vendors across the country. They use ZERO electricity, cause ZERO water or soil pollution and emit ZERO carbon into the atmosphere, through all their production processes. Transparency being a fundamental principle, Okhai aims to answer the most pressing question “who made my clothes” ergo, the founders have very thoughtfully inserted snippets and details of each artisan who is involved in the making of the products. 

Okhai is directly connecting the artisans to the urban customers by providing an e-commerce website which is accessible nationwide. Okhai has paved a way for the customers to connect with the artisans and thereby preserving and protecting the age-old crafts and traditions, by providing a digital platform and putting the artisans of Okhamandal on the map. Okhai works exclusively with women cotton farmers. Kirti Poonia, the head of Okhai says that it is at the core of the brand to help women become the agents of change by enabling them to be financially independent and be the backbone of their families.Tata Group has been known to contribute significantly towards the growth and development of the society as well as our surroundings through their philanthropic and CSR activities like Arogya, Kaushalya, Amrutha and so on. 

In a nutshell, Tata via Okhai aims to create contemporary, minimalistic, eco-friendly, sustainable and comfortable clothing, decor and accessories which are ethically produced by 1000s of happy hands who are a part of a tight-knit community & self-help groups of Okhamandal. Let’s take a deeper look at their ethical modus operandi and what they have to offer..

The women artisans of Okhamandal are the backbone of the company. Okhai management consider the artisans as partners, as equals. The head artisan is a part of Okhai’s board of trustees.

2300 women artisans are employed and they work in assembly groups; Each group of the artisan cluster specializes in a particular craft; some stitch, some embroider, and so on. They recieve training with regards to design, merchandising & costing. They attend special workshops conducted by international speakers. The brand also enrolls them into NIFT and NID programs to stay ahead of trends. Fabrics are sourced with the help of 0 middlemen, directly from other TATA Clusters situated in Munnar, Lucknow, Varanasi and Kenya.

Since they flourished online, first it comes as no surprise that they have a rather prominent social media following.

And so it makes perfect sense to introduce hyperlinks by employing shoptabs on instagram and facebook. According to my observation, Okhai is very active on Social Media and respond to comments and queries. Their user engagement is great.

They have their own website through which they sell and apart from that they also sell through multi e-retail platforms such as the above.

Traffic for Okhai’s own website

The above graph shows the traffic for their own website. We can tell that the peak of the bell is reached in april and sales and the number of visitors declined after the onset of the pandemic. Okhai made 23 millions dollars of revenue in the financial year 16-17 which is double than the turnover of AY 14-15. Okhai has also managed to reduce manufacturing costs by 50% and increasing productivity.

Some of the challenges that Okhai faces is operational, managerial issues, performance, competitors, logistics and data security. Since they’re a sister company of Tata, the receive support from Tata IQ, for tech support, operations, digital marketing, customer acquisition and business expansion programmes

Connotations of Fashion

You see colors in everything around you, every moment of the day—but do you ever stop to think about the impact each of those colors is having on you? Whether it’s the calming effect of blue skies and fields of green, or the saliva-inducing red and yellow of your local fast food chain, each color has a meaning and taps into emotions. There’s a whole science (and art) in the meanings of colors. Similarly, colors also have cultural connotations revolving around them. Such as the color white is considered pure, color black is considered to be an omen and so on. Each color can have a different meaning attached to them, based on the geographical location. Down below, we can see each color and their positive connotations on the right and negative connotations on the left, in different countries of the world.

Just like the colors, clothing items can symbolize something too. Fashion, throughout history has been a medium through which people convey the message of values, status, rebellion, etc., Fashion is a vehicle you can drive to feel a sense of belonging in your culture, religion, social groups, country or ethnicity. Golden Globes Black Out, 2018, where female celebrities walked the red carpet wearing black as a sign of protest for the #MeToo Movement or how the colors of the rainbow are used by the LGBTQ Community to symbolize unity in diversity.

Let us take headwear and examine how different it can look from country to country and also note what each headpiece symbolizes.

1. Cultural Connotation– Slave Traders made it mandatory for black women to wear a turban/scarf on their heads to segregate them when they were being carried on ships from Africa to be sold in the US, ergo it was a sign of oppression. Women who were subject to slavery, used to carry secret messages in the folds of their turbans to communicate amongst one another in secret to form a rebellion, ergo it was also a symbol of freedom. The turban eventually became a part of the Black Power uniform, which they wore while protesting for their freedom.
2. Social Connotation– The Peta is an ivory turban made out of silk. It was used by the Mysuru Wodeyars and peers of the realm to signify royalty, power & status.
3. Spiritual Connotation- The use of hijab is mentioned in the holy Quran. Islamic women wear for a plethora of reasons i.e., to be modest, to evade male gaze and to convey that they have completely surrendered to their faith. There are many countries which are Islamophobic and hence do not allow Islamic citizens to cover their faces, so that every citizen can be identified. So women wore hijab is also used to curb islamophobia and raise awareness about it to eliminate misconceptions.
4. Political Connotation- The Kaffiyeh is a square fabric typically covered with patterns of black and white. It was worn traditionally, by farmers to protect their skins while they worked in fields but eventually, it became a symbol of solidarity against the British Rule. When Yaseer Arafath was seen wearing the Kaffiyeh when he attended conferences, it became a tool of resistance to battle extrajudicial killing, oppression and dispossession.

And finally, The Kimono has a massive connotations in the Japanese Culture. It is symbolic of grace, traditions, good fortune, positivity, prosperity, intricacy, effort, elegance and so on.

From a fashion stand-point, we can conclude that as designers, it is necessary to know about various colors and their significance in various cultures as well as important pieces of clothing which have some strong roots or value attached to them so that in the future as well-informed and responsible dressmakers, we do not offend any sentiments of various groups by painting their pieces of clothing/accessory with a deep-rooted value, in bad light.

Rococo Robes

In the outset of 18th century, a major shift in culture appeared in European Countries. Designs saw elaborate, intricate work done on them. The French and English styles of fashion were very varied from one another. French style was defined by elaborate court dress, colourful and rich in decoration, worn by such iconic fashion figures as Marie Antoinette who became the face of French Fashion along with her dressmaker Rose Bertin. This time was known as the ‘Enlightenment’, which valued reason over authority. The influence for art, culture, and fashion shifted its’ centre from Versailles to Paris. New designs were introduced which had an influence on society which consisted of aristocrats, middle and the lower class. Madame Pompadour, the mistress of Louis XV was one of the notable Rococo Fashion figures. English style was defined by simple practical garments, made of inexpensive and durable fabrics, catering to a leisurely outdoor lifestyle. These lifestyles were also portrayed through the differences in portraiture.

Fashion magazines were invented this year which consisted colorful illustrations of dresses and tid-bids of fashion news. Fashion Designers gained more popularity thanks to the widespread use of magazines.

Robe Volante

-Robe Volante (Sack Gown)

A style that appeared in the early eighteenth-century was the ‘robe volante’, a flowing gown, that became popular towards the end of King Louis XIV’s reign. This gown had the features of a bodice with large pleats flowing down the back to the ground over a rounded petticoat. The colour palate was rich, dark fabrics accompanied by elaborate, heavy design features. After the death of Louis XIV the clothing styles began to change. The fashion took a turn to a lighter, more frivolous style, transitioning from the baroque period to the well-known style of Rococo. The later period was known for their pastel colours, more revealing frocks, and the plethora of frills, ruffles, bows, and lace as trims.

Robe à la Françoise

-Robe à la Françoise (Sack Back Gown)

Shortly after the typical women’s Rococo gown was introduced, robe à la Françoise, that was worn over a bodice, attached with a stomacher i.e., u-shaped garments, hoops and paniers underneath the skirt. The gown parted in the middle to form an opening that allowed the underskirts to peak through to form a contrast and abundance of materials. often decorated with a profusion of bows, lace, elaborate braidwork patterns, or embroidery, and the sleeves of the gown were cut to make elaborate flounces at the elbows that were usually decorated with lace. While trains were common in the early times of the robe à la française‘s appearance, they tended to be ever more restricted to court circles, where the train was an obligatory element of dress.

Robe à la Polonaise

-Robe à la Polonaise

The polonaise gown first came into fashion in the 70ss. It was a style of gown with a close-fitting bodice and the back of the skirt gathered up into three separate pouffy sections to reveal the petticoat skirt below. The method of suspending the fabric varied through out the period. Most often the dress had rows of little rings sewn inside the skirt through which a cord ran from hem to stomach. Alternatively, ribbon ties would be used, with the ribbons forming fancy bows. However, in some instances the skirt was held in place by basic cords sewn to the inner waist of the dress and looped over buttons attached to the outside waistline. The stays underpinning the bodice of the polonaise were not markedly different from those which supported the robe à la françoise.

Robe À L’Anglaise

-Robe À L’Anglaise

Dress, close-fitting in both front and back, that was worn in the late 18th century without panniers. The bodice was shaped to long point in back and closed in front. Skirt was either closed or slashed in front to show matching petticoat from underneath. It translates to ‘English Gown’ in French”

Caraco

-Caraco

A caraco is a long jacket with a fitted back, like a robe a l’Anglaise.  The length of the skirt of these jackets seems to be about mid-thigh, and the skirts usually had inverted box pleats at the back, often pressed but sometimes left loose.  Caracos typically have 3/4 length sleeves with flounces attached to them.  Examples of caracos close severals ways, with lacings over a stomacher, pinned to a stomacher, with “flaps” that hook across a stomacher, or with a comperes front (a false front made to look like a stomacher, that closes at the center with hooks or buttons), or end-to-end by hooks.

Cravat

–Cravat

The cravat is a neckband, the forerunner of the modern tailored necktie and bow tie, originating from a style worn by people of the 17th century military base known as the Croats.

From the end of the sixteenth century, the term band applied to any long-strip neckcloth that was not a ruff. The ruff, a starched, pleated white linen strip, originated earlier in the sixteenth century as a neckcloth (readily changeable, to minimize the soiling of a doublet), as a bib, or as a napkin. A band could be either a plain, attached shirt collar or a detachable “falling band” that draped over the doublet collar. It is possible that initially, cravats were worn to hide soil on shirts.

–Pelisse

A pelisse was traditionally a short fur trim jacket worn hanging loose atop the left shoulder of cavalry soldiers to prevent sword cuts. The name was also shared by a woman’s coat.

During the rococo the men’s clothing will be less substantial. The tailored jacket has a flared back panel; the ruffles of the shirt come out. The stockings get a lighter color and the man wears black low shoes with a silver buckle. New is the English redingote, a buttoned long dressing gown. The wigs are less heavily powdered and white.

-Make-Up and Hair

Rococo Make-Up

Cosmetics were a huge part of Rococo France, being part of the ‘informal ceremony’ the public toilette, where aristocratic women would dress their hair and ‘paint’ their faces in front of an audience. Makeup was make from highly toxic materials and even with knowledge of this the  cosmetics were so popular they were used regardless. The two main cosmetics used by both men and women was blanc and rouge.Thick white paint would be worn on the faces, with heavy rouge and ’mouches’ (beauty patches made of small pieces of taffeta). In face it was more fashionable to wear cosmetics than to have a naturally pale complexion.

-Rococo Inspired Movies

• The Duchess (2008)
•  Marie Antoinette (2006)
•  Orlando (1992)
•  The Scarlet Pimpernel (1999–2000)
• Marquise (1997)

-Rococo Inspired Fashion

Hervé Léger Spring/Summer 2011

Simone Rocha F/W 2014

Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2006

-References

-History of Costume- historyofeuropeanfashion.wordpress.com

-Rococo Style- period-styles-art-history-blog.tumblr.com

-8 Times Marie Antoinette Has Inspired the Runway- savoirflair.com

-18th: Rococo- imdb.com

Baroque Bandwagon

Louis XIV

The Baroque Era kicked into motion during the early 1600s in Rome and spread across Europe, where strides were made in art, literature, architecture, music and fashion. Louis XIV, the Sun King revolutionized and changed the fashion trends which were a result of the Renaissance Era where there was excessive decoration of clothes. Contrasting and detachable pieces of clothing was used earlier but during the Baroque era, ensembles were made which matched through and through with regards to fabric and color; this concept of ‘en suit’ is what gave birth to the modern day suit. But one thing which remained constant was middle class copying trends from the Royalty and the Royalty in return invented new trends to stand apart from them. Fashion changed throughout the year as the concept of seasons was introduced. What sets the style of this ear apart is the replacement of the ruff with linen and broad laced collars. Dress-makers guilds were set into motion by Louis XIV which housed fashion designers who engaged themselves in making harmonious ensembles for the Nobility. natural, curving silhouettes, flowing lines, gold filigree, rich colors, and overall voluptuousness were the features which were common.

-Women’s Fashion

Women’s clothing became much less restricting.  Flexible stays replaced hard, tight-fitting corsets.  Flowing lace collars replaced stiff ruffs.  Large farthingales were abandoned and skirts were merely layered or padded at the hips to produce a full, flowing look.  Usually two skirts were worn, the overskirt (manteau) open at the front and usually forming a train or bustle at the back, and an underskirt.  Decorative aprons became popular with the middle classes.  The plunging neckline called the décolletage became common, often accompanied with wide lace collars.  Waistlines were also high during the first part of the period, though long, pointed bodices and stiff stomachers came back during the latter half of the period.  Sleeves were large, gathered at the wrist or elbow and often with turned-back lace cuffs.  They progressively became more and more ruffled and segmented as the period progressed.  Solid-colored silks and brocades were used more often than patterned fabrics, and usually decorations consisted only of lace, tied  or rosetted ribbons, limited embroidery, and simple pearl jewelry.

Women’s clothing became a tad more practical as it allowed them to move more freely. Stretchable top wear replaced uncomfortable corsets, ruffs were replaced by flowing collars, farthingales which were gigantic were replaced by layered/padded, flowy skirts which had to layers i.e., manteau the overskirt which opened at the front to as there was a long train or bustle at the back and an underskirt.

Necklines were plunging and accompanied by wide lace panels, it was called décolletage by the people. High waistlines which were popular during the early stages of the baroque period transformed into pointed bodices during the latter. Aprons became popular among the commoners. Decorative elements such as lace, ribbons, embroidery and pearl jewellery were used to finish the garments.

close-fitted breaches

-Men’s Fashion

Baroque men’s wear was much like women’s in terms of flexibility and ease of movement. High waist, wide lace collars, lace cuffs, high-knee boots, wide brimmed feather hats, pointed beard and loose hair. “the Three Musketeers” like pantaloon were seen.

Further along the way, men’s fashion became more elaborate and extravagant with Louis’ rule. Large collars were replaced with lace ruffles known as jabots. After the death of Louis XIV, fashion took another turn; breeches were more tight-fitting and tied, buttoned or buckled at the knee. Long coats with braid-trimmed button holes were popular. Sleeves were long and folded over. Wigs became larger and were powdered white.

-Children

Children in any social class dressed like miniature adults. Very poor children owned a single wool gown. The import on cotton was banned in this era. The lower class garments were made from wool where the upper class garments were made from silk and velvets.

Children of any social class looked like miniature adults. The upper class children wore silk and velvets whereas the poor wore woolen gowns.

-Hair Make-Up & Jewelry

Tight curls formed on the hairline and the sides of the head was popular among women. This hair-do was called as ‘heartbreakers’. Hairstyles known as ‘fontage’ which required the women to wear their hair higher than normal was trendy. Peers of the Realm used rouge on their lips and cheeks and covered their faces with an OG facemask/patch made out of silk and velvet.

They used more perfume than what is generally required as they didn’t bathe for days due to the misconception of water being bad for the skin.

-Footwear

The heel lost nothing of its popularity – but it wandered slowly towards the centre of the foot. The toe-caps used to be horribly pointed and walking in them was sure as fate very painful for the wearer. Cut-outs were a popular element for this time.

The shoes were closed with a buckle or tied with a band or were just to slip in. Those who could afford it had the shoes made of fine materials like high-quality leather, velvet or damask. Decorative elements increased the luxurious look even more. Patterns with high plateau heels used to protect the fine footwear from mud and dirt on the streets. Shoes acquired pointed toes and high heels, but women’s shoes were ironically much simpler than men’s. 

-Accessories

Jewelry was very simple during this period, consisting of single strings of pearls or diamonds or sometimes a ribbon tied around the neck.

The usage of accessories depended upon the seasons. A veil was worn during the summer to protect the complexion along with a hand-held fan to cool oneself. In winters, women would step out with a fur muff, hood and a mask which covered the face almost entirely with holes for the eyes.

-The Commoners

The middle class on the other hand had a contrasting style sense although the contrast was not as significant as that of the poor class. The lower class fashion was dependent on the occupation one had. Women who worked for the middle class and upper class wore a small ruff, a linen chemise and a wool skirt along with an apron. Those who worked in the cities or the fields and had little or no contact with the elite would have had very plain woolen attire, like the fashions of previous generations in their caste. The middle class fashion was a mixed of both as it was fluctuating from member to member of the class community. The middle class wanted to dress like nobility, but were more morally conservative. While the general silhouette of their costumes changed, the middle class continued donning high necklines and ruffs, which had fallen out of trend.

-Baroque Inspired TV

• The Lady and the Highwayman, 1988
• The Last King 2003
•  The Triumph of Love 2001

-Baroque Inspired Fashion

Dolce & Gabbana A/W 2012

Balmain’s F/W ’12-13

-References

-Period Dramas-The Baroque Era 1600-1750- imdb.com

-Baroque Era- baroquefashionandlifestyle.weebly.com

-Baroque 1600-1720- epochs-of-fashion.com